Remember the person you select is going to shrink quite a bit, so if you want a big one, you have to get a really big one. You also need someone who is going to stay very still. The more still your model is, the better your cast will fit together in the end. You will thank them for maintaining their gesture. Pay the person who is your model. They will feet more obliged to do a good job. Also get someone who will stick to it and will want to get it all done in one day without too many breaks. This helps to capture the proper gesture because the mold will have to be taken off, and put back on before and after breaks.
to begin
I find it helpful to give my person an environment in which to pose. If they are going to be on rocks, then put them on rocks, if it is a chair, have them sit on a chair. Mark their hands and feet, and butt, and anything that is touching anything so that the model can more easily maintain their pose. At this point it is also helpful to think about the final mold and undercuts-you need to have a pretty good idea of what the finished product will be in order to coordinate the different mold processes.
plaster body cast
Once the person is sufficiently marked and in place, the next thing to do is to draw dividing lines on the- person for the bandage cast This is very important to do carefully, both for the mold quality, and so you won't lock the person inside the plaster. Remember at this point the lines you are making are only concerned with the -plaster, body cast and they have nothing to do with the mold lines you will make for the final mold. You are only concerned with making a full body mold so that you can have a plaster original human to use in your mold for your sculpture. So dividing lines are made with permanent marker on the person; a two piece mold for the legs, two pieces for the arms etc... I am casting a small boy. Knowing that small boys are sometimes impatient, I Wanted to capture as much of the gesture in one piece as possible so that at least I would have a large consistent piece to work from- which is what I suggest, use the largest whole sections that you can.
I am using plaster bandages that I bought at General Medical Supply Co. in Rochester. They are expensive, but well worth it for their proven quality, and the time and worry they will, save you in the long run. You can however make your own with gauze and plaster but the working time is much less controllable, and is generally a big bother.
Have someone working with you. This makes everything go twice as fast, thus the model is less likely to become fatigued, and you will get better mold quality.
The bandages are easy to use, just drop them in water, wring them out, and smooth them onto the surface to be cast. Be sure to Vaseline all the body parts, and to shave or cover any hairy areas with plastic wrap. Plastic wrap is used over the eyes, which can be easily sanded and carved away once it is in the positive again Cover the eyebrows and hair with a shower cap.
A section of the mold can be made on both sides at the same time with two people. Each person works exactly up to the dividing line drawn on the model. Four layers of bandages are needed to make a strong mold ( more in fragile areas).
If the model does need a break, be sure to put them back in the mold to insure a consistent gesture. Duct tape will hold them in well enough.
The head is done in three parts. One part is made which cuts under the neck, down the Adam's apple, and across the scapula. Another is made of the back of the head, which cuts over the outermost part of the ears, and across the top of the shoulders. One last section is made for the face, and will pull directly off. Leave the nostrils open for now,. You can cover them later before you fill the mold.
So the mold is done and off the model. When you take the mold off be sure to tape. it together with duct tape, at this point the mold is still not as hard as it will become, and it will warp if you don't put it together.
